I’ve been spending lots of time researching automatic door openers over the last several months and have come up with a couple thoughts:
- There aren’t many manufacturers that make them
- They cost an awful lot of money
- I could probably make one myself for much cheaper
There seems to be two types of automatic door openers used in the commercial world; those which use a pneumatic cylinder and those which use a electromechanical device. The pneumatic operators seem to be used in more large scale operations where a large number (10+) of automatic doors are spread throughout an establishment. An air compressor/tank and the pressure valves/manifolds/controls are located in a centralized place and then routed to each individual door. Electromechanical operators are more self-contained, and although costing more, have everything packaged as an operating unit right at the door. For simplicity it seems like an electromechanical system (possibly with a battery backup) is the way to go to seamlessly integrate everything into my home automation system.
For pricing, commercial style electromechanical operators like the ones you see in grocery stores/businesses across town are more than $3,000 apiece. I’ve found a company, that makes a very good residential electromechanical operator for about $1,500, which seems like a better deal, but is still an awful lot of money; especially when you consider I need 3 of these.
So I think I want to design my own, and would appreciate any help you guys might have with coming up with a solution.
Linear Actuator
My initial thoughts were to use a simple 12/24VDC linear actuator. Energize the actuator in one direction and it would expand/open the door, energize the actuator in the other direction and it would compress/close the door. Would definitely work, but it has a few failure modes/safety issues that make me very nervous.
- When you energize a linear actuator it is moving. It doesn’t care if there is a finger, foot, or whatever in the way. This is definitely a major safety issue and not something I’m okay with.
- What happens if you lose power? There is no manual operation of a linear actuator, so without power the door stays close. Another major safety/access issue I’m not okay with.
So the linear actuator is out!
Pneumatic Cylinder
From there, I started thinking about using a pneumatic cylinder to open/close the door. You could attach a pneumatic cylinder almost like they attach one to a storm door to control it from closing too fast. With a 12/24VDC solenoid on each side of the cylinder you could open/close the door depending on which side you pressurize. Energize the solenoid on the low side of the cylinder and you’d extend the ram/open the door; energize the solenoid on the high side and you’d retract the ram/close the door. By regulating how much pressure is in the system you could regulate the power of the device and prevent the safety issues caused by the linear actuator. You could also get creative with depressurizing the system after operation so that you could still have manual, unimpeded operation of the door.Seems like a much better option, but still has the complexity of routing air/pneumatic tubing to the doors in the house.
12/24VDC Motor/Electromechanical Clutch
My last brainstorm/epiphany/which way I currently think is best is to use a combination of a DC motor with a electromechanical clutch. For automatic operation you would run the motor/engage the electromechanical clutch in the forward direction which would open the door. Then switch polarity on the motor/still engage the clutch to close the door. Full manual operation would still work because the electromechanical clutch would normally be disengaged and allow the door to open/close as though no operator was attached. The electromechanical clutch could be sized such that it would slip when obstructed by a person, foot, or finger mitigating the safety issues of the linear actuator.
I think this is definitely the design route I’d like to go, but I have no idea how to size the motor/electromechanical clutch. What RPM motor do I need? What torque value clutch? All kinds of questions! What stuff do I need?
I’ve got some very talented fabricator friends that can make me any sort of linkages/whatever I need. I just need to figure out what pieces to give them to make this work.
Any thoughts guys? Appreciate it!
-Mike
Mike, I like your idea of the electromechanical clutch! While it may be more difficult/expensive than the linear actuator, it is definitely a good choice. As far as the motor, you are going to want something with relatively low RPM and high static torque so the door doesn't fly open. I'm thinking in the realm of 300 RPM or less, depending on the system you will use to open the door (i.e. how far it has to travel).There are tons of different clutches you could use, but I think you should look into the hysteresis-powered clutch. It has a very high torque range and since it is powered by hysteresis, it could be activated by use of a proximity sensor (i.e. if you approach the door, the hysteresis seen by the sensor will activate the clutch). Those are my initial thoughts
What disqualifies these?:http://www.skylinkhome.com/us/products/sdo/dm100.htmlNot rugged enough?
Definitely looked into the Skylink operators, and immediately thought I'd hit the jackpot, but they don't allow manual operation.As fine as it would be for me to always use automatic operation, I suspect that it would be a dealbreaker for the rest of the family. Add in the 20+ guys I'll be having over weekly to play poker and I suspect the operator would quickly implode from the many forced manual operations.
Hey Brandon. Sounds like you've got some experience with small motors/electromechanical clutches. Do you know any vendors/manufacturers I could contact to toss around a few ideas and figure out what size I need.I was looking at the specifications for one of the very popular residential automatic door openers and it specd the following: 1.5A 12VDC electric motor and a 15 in-lbs constant torque slipping disc clutch. How would that compare to a hysteresis clutch?A lot of guys on one of the tech/automation forums think a pneumatic set up might be the easiest to make safe. They've thrown around a system that would have:- Adjustable relief valve- Cylinder with auto retract- 2 ball pivots- Air solenoid- Flow regulator to adjust open speed- Air hose and fittingsProbably could be had for less than a few hundred bucks per door.
Mike,What about using the linear actuator, and measuring the current being drawn for your safety mechanism, and reverse polarity a bit and then kill power for a safe extraction of foot/finger…Also on the realm of manual operation, what about some electro-magnetic connection… energize the electro-magnet to stick the mechanism to the door and de-energize it and it can open manually. (so keep it de energized until you want to use it.I think that with pneumatic option you'd still have problems with the snow load up there unless all doors open inward (thinking storm doors also could be a problem…) and if any snow gets in the door seal it may not close in any case, so if the safety mechanism trips it should also set off an alarm of sorts.Todd
Hey Todd,I keep going back and forth between the pneumatic/all electrical solution. In one sense I love the simplicity of tuning the speed/strength of a pneumatic system. Throw in a pressure regulator and flow control valve and you immediately have fine control over the whole action. I would much prefer an all electrical solution for cleanness/simplicity/not having to run air plumbing everywhere, but am struggling with a few characteristics of an all electrical solution. Seems to be far more challenging to integrate and keep things safe.I like your thoughts about finding a way to make a linear actuator safe. I will admit still, I have always been hesitant to rely on an electrical system alone to keep an inherently non-safe system safe. As for your electromagnetic connection, I've been doing some research on a device called a hysteresis clutch which is exactly that. Haven't turned up exactly the magical product to solve all my worries yet, but it looks like some sort of hysteresis clutch combined with a gear reduction motor could definitely fit the bill for the swinging doors.For the sliding doors it's looking more and more like a linear actuator belt drive with a properly sized torque tensioner/override might be what I need.It's just a challenge figuring out what products/vendors to look at. There are literally thousands of different products with hugely varying prices and specifications.Will keep looking tomorrow.-Mike
Mike,I'm struggling to remember some of the more popular motor vendors out there, but there are tons. I know Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/) has some pretty good stuff but I don't know the cost. Vickers-Eaton is another popular vendor, but they deal mostly with hydraulics I believe.For this application, however, you can likely find something either at a junkyard or an online salvage/surplus shop for cheap. I've used this site several times: http://www.surpluscenter.com/electric.asp?catname… As far as disc vs. hysteresis clutch, I don't think is too much of a difference. As I understand, hysteresis clutches have a wider torque range based on how much voltage is applied by the hysteresis whereas the disc clutch is essentially on/off. Also, I read that the hysteresis clutch should last longer based on the fact that it completely releases the shaft rather than just allowing the shaft to slip like the disc clutch does.Unfortunately, I do not have much experience with pneumatic systems…but as an electrical guy I cringe at the idea of running hoses throughout the house and having to adjust valves valves, maintain a compressor, etc. Just my .02.
I have read the post and I am really impressed by the way it has been represented, you should do more post like these.Thanks!:)